It's a pleasure to see a chef with great ideas try to make a go of it in Gotham, and I wish I could wholeheartedly recommend Olvera's sleek, sexy restaurant. There's an early-1990s fusion whiff about a sliver of Boston mackerel ($18) with a bloom of rough kohlrabi and a blob of mustardy Caesar dressing, too-preciously arranged on a giant white plate.
An experiment that doesn’t quite work: Burrata with salsa verde at Cosme, courtesy of chef Enrique Olvera. Fronted up by head chef Daniela Soto-Innes, Atla, which is located on Lafayette Street, will offer up casual and healthy Mexican cuisine that steps away from Olvera’s more high-end Cosme restaurant concept. And when Cosme opened its doors late last October, the place was already booked for months, before anybody had even tasted a … Book. When it came to desserts, a "husk" meringue, cracked open and oozing corn mousse, competed with a south-of-the-border-style carrot cake (candied carrots, cinnamon cake, and cream cheese ice cream) as the most impressive dulce.
When the news broke a couple of years back that Enrique Olvera of Pujol renown was going to open up shop in New York City, the restaurant-opening hype cycle kicked into overdrive. He is the owner and head chef of Pujol, a Mexican haute cuisine restaurant in Mexico City, which is currently ranked 12th in the world according to the 2019 annual The World's 50 Best Restaurants listing. Black bass, caraflex cabbage, mojo de ajo. Flora outnumber fauna on the skimpy-looking platter, though. They might end up feeling a little cheated. Taco Bar. There's also a shrimp and hamachi ceviche-stuffed avocado bathed in a spicy "cocktail sauce" and a silky black bean puree accompanying lobster pibil(a traditional slow-roasting technique from the Yucatán Peninsula). Concord grape raspado, avocado sorbet. All rights reserved.
Sparkling water comes gratis. The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Condé Nast. The drinks held their own, including the Anti Histamine—Don Julio, Strega, citrus, honey and bee pollen—and a quasi-vegetable juice sangritaserved as a chaser with Cosme’s extensive list of tequilas.
Menu; Private Dining; Careers; Gift Cards; Reservations; 372 Lafayette St, NoHo, NY 10012 (347) 662-3522. Cosme is a restaurant in New York City’s Flatiron District serving contemporary Mexican-inspired cuisine. We certainly won’t bet against it. All these combinations were new and exciting, yet immediately familiar. Enrique Olvera and Daniela Soto-Innes are headed to Los Angeles, opening two side-by-side restaurants in the Arts District by fall.
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His cooking is always changing; it draws ideas from everywhere, always reinterpreting and evolving, but with the roots in … In his homeland, Olvera's a Danny Meyer-tier superstar. Short rib, onions, bone marrow.
But Cosme's cross-cultural experiments don't fly so high. Ad Choices, The Hot Seat: Enrique Olvera's Cosme in NYC. Chef Enrique Olvera made his culinary name with Pujol—a Mexico City institution since it opened in 2000. Our momentary awe gave way to another "Where's the beef?" drug bust, Geraldo Rivera to Trump supporters: ‘We lost’, Man fatally stabbed, woman slashed, after argument on Bronx street, How Dennis Smith Jr. is fixing his jumper, Bette Midler to Kayleigh McEnany: Go f--k yourself, ALLAN WERNICK: Immigrants without lawful status must return to their home country for a green card interview, Knicks contradiction: Tom Thibodeau’s a win-now coach given a lose-now roster, Actress Gabourey Sidibe gets engaged to boyfriend Brandon Frankel, Brooklyn teen, shot and paralyzed in 1995, forgave gunman — who now faces possible murder rap after her death in 2020, Bodies of 2 men killed in Vesuvius eruption discovered in Pompeii: ‘Like a still image from 2,000 years ago’, CDC officials warn COVID vaccine aftereffects may be uncomfortable: ‘no walk in the park’, Giants’ Joe Judge’s scouting report of Bucs’ Tom Brady seems like it’s spot on, Why Trump’s conspiracies take hold: There are good reasons millions of Americans have a corrosive distrust of the media, Experience makes a comeback: An early look at Joe Biden’s Washington, Huge snake-like worm species invading Georgia, Rudy Giuliani honors David Dinkins in death but led racist rally against him in office, Meghan Markle reveals she suffered miscarriage over the summer, U.S. citizens detained for speaking Spanish at Montana grocery store settle suit against U.S. Customs and Border Protection. Open since fall 2014, Cosme has achieved the remarkable by living up to the almost impossible hype that accompanied Chef Olvera’s Manhattan debut. That deafening roar from E. 21st St. is the hype surrounding Cosme, the first U.S. restaurant from muy caliente Mexico City chef Enrique Olvera. Expect turned-on-the-head combos like an impossibly crispy rectangle of chicharron playing the role of tostada, with paper-thin slices of tomatillo in addition to the requisite avocado, cilantro, and radish. Olvera does stop bean counting — at least when he's serving them.
Aguachile ($18), the high-voltage Mexican ceviche riff, unleashes another stampede. Enrique Olvera opened Pujol in Mexico City in 2000. Heirloom grits, chanterelles, NY cheddar, truffle.
His cooking is always changing; it draws ideas from everywhere, always reinterpreting and evolving, but with the roots in Mexican ingredients and techniques of all times. La rapte potato tlayuda, quesillo. Mole de la casa, camote. Olvera’s first job after graduation brought him to Chicago’s Everest in 1999. Condé Nast Traveler does not provide medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment.
I doubt you'll taste anything this year as good as husk meringue with corn mousse ($12); Olvera pulverizes corn husk leaves into a powder that's blended into a traditional meringue, in which he enfolds an intense pudding of corn puree, cream, and mascarpone.
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